26th - 30th March

This week has been the progression of making my jacket in order to to get it completed to a suitable stage for the second fitting.
I've worked on finishing the emroidery that would be used for the lapel (I wanted to get the embroidery completed for the decorative front flap, however someone was using the machine. Therefore I will have to do this embroidery along with the cuffs and collar after the second fitting.)
I've successfully put my jacket and trousers together to the second fitting standard with the sleeves and collar made out of collar as they are the areas that may have to be changed.

I've been feeling as though I'm not going to complete this whole project in time. After this second fitting, we've got 2 weeks so I'm going to have to be strict with my timetable in orde rto get it all completed.

19th - 25th April

I began this week by completing all the pad stitching that had to be done in the jacket fronts and and the lapels which took a long time with the big lapels that are on this jacket. I had to restart the lapel pad stitching a couple of times but after that I got into it and think I did fairly well at keeping the stitched neat. If I do decide to go into tailoring in the future though, this is one of the main jobs I would have to get used to because it's so long and boring! Especially with lapels as big as these.



On Wednesday, Jennifer and me went to Poole to source fabrics, a shirt for me and waistcoats. I managed to find a shirt, the same as what Jennifer and Lottie have for their performers. Neither of us were able to find a waistcoat so we're going to try looking on the internet as we will need this waistcoat in just over a weeks time for the fitting.
We got 3 samples of fabric that we could possibly use for the lining. After showing these samples to Lottie and Kate, we've decided to go for the cheaper grey/silver polyester that's less shimmery because it looks the most grey, the other two samples were heavier and lighter.

On Thursday, I got the embroidery machine from fashion and spent the whole day trying to figure out how to use it as no one else in the university is trained to use it. It was a very frustrating day and I'd be glad to see the back of the machine, but I pushed forward with it into Friday because I believe it will be a good effect on the Jacket. Luckily on Friday, I had got the hang of what I was doing and managed to star on my first final lapel.
It's a very long-winded process, I'm sitting around waiting for the computer to either take it's time to do one job or just sitting there with my foot on the pedal whilst it sews. I'll start up again on this to finish the lapels on Monday.
These pictures show 1) the writing that the sewing machine does on it's own without being linked up to the laptop. I felt this looked really good... until I moved onto what the laptop can do. 2) Shows a few samples of fonts and sizes that I experimented with before I chose what writing I would use for my final lapels. 3) shows the start of my final lapel. I really liked the font and size when I experiment with it on calico, but when I put it onto the final fabric it started pulling and putting holes into the cloth. So I've bought some stayflex in attempt to strengthen the fabric. The effect still isn't as good as it was on calico but I don't think i'm going to get much better with the final fabric that I've got.



Along side working on the jacket, I've also been trying to get my trousers together which I've managed to do - now I just need to put in a fastening after the 2nd fitting.

I've got a lot to do before the next fitting:

• Get black cotton and back my top fabric onto it.
• Sew Jacket together, piping included.
• Cut skirt and attach to jacket.
• Finish lapels.
• Finish sewing trousers together.
  

12th - 18th April

This week I've worked mainly on my jacket. I've managed to adapt the patterns from the fitting and use the toile as pattern pieces to cut out the top fabric. So far I've only cut out the front, side and back panels; I'm leaving the skirt until I've got the top part of the jacket together.
I've then been work on pad stitching the shoulder canvas, hair canvas and breast felt to the jacket front. I'm still yet to pad stitch the lapels to give them shape, i'm predicting this will take a while to do judging by the size of my lapels.
I started work on my trousers, I have managed to line them with black cotton and overlock them, ready to put them together with piping down the side seams.
According to my learning agreement I was timetabled that I would have my trousers to near completion stage by Thursday. However, I haven't stuck to this plan because of the amount of work I've been doing on the Jacket. I will do the trousers in the time I've planned to complete my jacket.
I've been in a dilemma about what decoration to use on the jacket. I was planning to just have beads. However, when I created a sample, I found that they made the jacket look slightly 'Elvis'-like. Another option I will experiment with next week is embroidery - one idea Joe had was to embroider some of The Rileys song lyrics onto the costume. My new idea is to do this and still put some beads into it so that it links Joe's costume with Dave's and James's.
I feel like more could have been completed this week but I've been in limbo a few times when I haven't known how to move forward. Now that I know, I hope that I will achieve more in the coming weeks before the second fitting.

This is a photoshop experiment I did to get a vague idea of how it might look to have embroidered lyrics in the lapel. And A picture of the lyrics on their own:

Post Easter

After the first fitting, I didn't feel comfortable enough to start adapting the pattern before I got back to Uni. Today gave me the opportunity to look at the toile, change the shape to make it look how I wanted, and eventually take apart and turn the calico panels into pattern pieces that I will use to cut out my top fabric. I will only work on the top pieces of the jacket today, and make the skirt once I know the new waistline measurement from the top of the jacket.

First day back after easter.
All four of us placed our jackets (that had now been adapted in the fitting) and Graham was available to look over each of the costumes and tell us where to go next...

• My Jacket is doing up the wrong way round.

This means that I will have to swop which side the flap goes on and change the slant of the jacket hem. The buttons will do up on the opposite side.

• The Centre Front (CF) was too short

Extend the CF seam over.

• Move the side seam nearer to the front
  

This is because the front panel is too big and waving around a lot on its own. Bringing the side seam forward slightly will prevent it a bit more. The side seam will be brought forward 1 inch.

• Use calico to change the shape of the lapel.
  

The lapels moved back after the back seams were taken in. The lapel needs to be made bigger to bring it back to its original design shape.

• Neck line changed.
  

Brought forward so it will sit comfortably. It fell back due to areas being pulled in. And the front of the neck line was cut down slightly to the shape of the neckline.




NOTE: The second back pleats were supposed to be a historical fold. They have now been changed into pleats as part of the design.


To be done for the next fitting:

• Consider if the fitting can be done in Bournemouth to have the assisstance of a tutor. This has been considered but due to the band's and tutor's shedule's its not possible. The second fitting has been arranged for Bank Holiday Monday, 3rd May 2010. This a date that all the band and all of us makers can attend but no tutor can.
• All items must be sourced or partially made (Jacket, Trousers, Shirt, Waistcoat, Cravat)
• Jacket and trousers must be made in CLOTH with canvas inside the jacket.
• Sleeves must be made in CALICO.
• Lining will be fitted into the jacket AFTER the second fitting, but we can buy and print the design before if we have time.
  

Fitting Evaluation

With work experience, I didn't have too much time to put the toile together before the first fitting. This resulted in my fitting taking longer than I expected - the sleeve in particular took quite a while to figure out.
Despite how long it took, I think the fitting went ok. The jacket fitted ok, just needed to take in the back seams and readjust where the lapel lay. I had a lot of problem fitting the sleeve in.

Changes made:

• Side seam taken in and moved forward.
• Centre pleat made bigger.
• Side pleats made bigger.
  
• Armhole made bigger.
• Sleeve taken in.
• Lapel shape changed.
• The jacket does up the wrong way so the sides need to be changed.
  

This fitting helped me to work out the final shape of the jacket and trousers and what I need to do next. After easter I will begin to adapt the jacket into pattern pieces to use to cut out my top fabric.

2nd Tutorial 10/03/10

Attendants of the Tutorial:
Myself, Kate Eldridge, Lottie Cutcher, Graham Cottenden

This tutorial was arranged to help kick start the project. I think we've been fairly organised so far within this project but we do have a lot to do in the next couple of months and this helped to see what we need to do. A group tutorial would be more successful with all makers present.
What needs to be done:

Budget - A budget needs to be discussed as a group to determine how much will be spent on both made and sourced garments.

Making - The recomended amount that we should make is two garments. My items will definately include the jacket and i'm yet to decide between a shirt, trousers or waistcoat for the second item. All other items that aren't made will be sourced for the photoshoot.

Patterns - We are to colaborate together relevant research images and use the patterns from 'The Modern Tailor, Outfitter and Clothier - Volume 1', pgs, 20-22, 54-56, 59-61.

Materials - We will find a day suitable to all 4 makers to go fabric shopping. We're looking at blacks, blues and greys. The quantity will vary depending on the costume being made but will probably be about 2.5m for trousers, 4m for the jacket and 3m for a shirt.
We will find lightweight fabrics to suit the band's comfort in performance.

Timeplan - We will have to put a timeplan together as a group, however, due to work experience, we will have to plan out our own individual time as well. It will be extremely beneficial to have days in the workrooms together.

First Tutorial

Attending this tutorial:
Myself, Jennifer Ridge, Lottie Cutcher, Kate Eldridge, Adele Keeley and Graham Cottenden.

This tutorial was to confirm what our Self Directed Project was going to be based on, to talk through plans and ideas and to discuss any possible ideas that will help.

Designs - We want to create 19th century costume but modernise it to suit the look of 'the rileys'. Possible ways to modernise it would be to personalise the lining. Graham suggested mixing 19th century styles with the 1960's or other eras to add a possible contemporary twist.
It was agreed that it won't be possible to make a full costume, some of the items will need to be sourced.

• Research Edwardian Frock Coats
• Research into Top Hats and how to make them.
• Create a research folder.
• Research the band's background and possibly arrange to see them perform.