Monday, 17 May 2010

Sunday, 16 May 2010

Final Evaluation


I began this Self Directed Project intending to develop my knowledge of tailoring and working in the music industry. I've created a final costume following these guidelines which isn't fully completed but that I have made to the client's requirements to the best of my ability and will continue to complete it after assessment.
This project has been non-stop. I began very early with research and designs and got onto making as soon as possible, partially because I was very keen and excited about this project and also because I knew it was going to be difficult. I underestimated how long every piece of this costume was going to take to complete. My lack of knowledge on how to make a suit and several other obstacles occurred making the process take a lot longer than expected. I feel that after this project, I’ve now bettered my knowledge of making Jackets, but other than the lining and following patterns out of a book, I don’t feel I’ve ‘tailored’ it in the same way we did tailoring in Defining Practice. I feel I could have done better in the making but now with this practise behind me, I will do better next time.
I feel I’ve coped fairly well to a time plan and that my organisation skills have been on top. There have been areas that challenged the time plan, such as the embroidery took a lot longer to do than I had expected and because it wasn’t originally planned, it had to be fitted in. We had to arrange fittings in London with all makers and all band members which I felt were planned very well. Considering these fittings were also unsupervised by a tutor, I feel we all coped extremely well under the pressure of nerves and fitting costumes that we weren’t completely sure how they were supposed to fit. We had to be extremely critical of our work in order to make sure it was right and we worked strongly as a team in these fittings to help each other.
We’ve done well to work as a team throughout the making process as well; we’ve always asked each other’s opinions before any changes to costumes were made and we tried our best to keep similar themes within all of the costumes so they will all look different but still link together.
There’s a few areas that I felt could be improved. At the beginning of this project I made sure that it would be possible to create a full suit with no previous experience and was informed that it would be fine. Although there were tutors to ask for help when we needed it, it would have been better if there had been structured work-shops alongside the one-to-one tutorials. This way we would have worked together a lot more and learnt the correct way to make each part, instead of going in different directions and at different paces. And it means that we would also have been learning the proper tailoring techniques as we needed to do them.
I feel without work-shops, a lot of what we created was based on guesswork, the lining and the jacket pleats especially, which results in wasted time. But I feel that by making these mistakes, the correct way to make will now stick in my head more than if I had just been told how to do it. The downfall of putting the lining in wrong has resulted in the lining not being great quality as it now has a few marks and tiny sewing holes in some areas of the fabric.
The benefits of this project have been the chance to design again, researching into a new era that I haven’t studied before, and learning how to make a costume that I’ve had next to no previous experience with. These are all aspects that I’ve loved and I will benefit from them.
I still have to finish the costume for Joseph Fielder, and will do when I get the costume back after assessment before The Riley’s next gig. I will need to finish the trousers – putting in the zip with a placket, herringbone stitching up the bottom of the trouser legs and possibly putting in pockets. And I need to finish the jacket by sewing button holes and the buttons on. I’m glad I haven’t had the time to put on the buttons, this way I can put the costume on Joe again and double check that I’ll be putting the buttons in the right places. For the gigs, I might also change the waistcoat. The one that I’ve bought didn’t match the trousers, so I attempted to dye it black but the dye didn’t take. I will either re-dye it again using a synthetic fabric dye from the University, or find another waistcoat suitable.
At the beginning of this project I was adamant that I wanted to continue studying tailoring in Level 6 and after University. I’m now unsure whether I would enjoy tailoring as much as I thought I would and therefore need to get more information on what next year will involve and where I can work after University before I make that choice.
Finally, I feel I’ve created a good costume that meets what the client has asked for, and despite being unfinished, it will be completed before it is needed for any performances. I don’t feel the costume is perfect, but I think I’ve done well to get it to the point that it’s at. In time as my knowledge and understanding of making garments develops I will find a project such as this easy, but for now, as my first attempt at a suit, it’s been extremely difficult and stressful and I will seriously contemplate how much work I can realistically complete before I take a project this big on again.

10th - 16th May

This is the final week of this Self Directed Project and I've really been feeling the pressure.
Last week I put my Jacket together and put the lining together in preparation to put into the jacket. However, this week we got told that this way of putting the lining in is incorrect and so we had to take out the jacket sleeves and unpick the shoulders so the jacket could lay flat. Then unpick the lining into the front piece, the back and side panels and the skirts.
Having to do this really set me back out of my time plan, and despite trying very hard this week to get everything done, I know that this costume won't be completed in time for the hand-in. I'm hoping this wont effect my my final mark too much, and I know that i'll be able to complete the costume before it's needed for the next Riley's gig.

Saturday, 15 May 2010

Budget

This is a rough outline of how much my costume cost to make. Only rough because there were other things that I bought and haven't included. And because some reciepts that I've got are unclear as to what cost what price.
I estimated spending about £150 on this costume. Therefore, with the little extra I have left over, I could find a hat and make a cravat if Joe wants it.

Tailcoat top fabric and the trouser fabric cost - £50
Black cotton - £6
Lining cost - £4
Buttons cost - £12
Canvas' cost - £13
Thread - £5
Gems cost - £4 (I bought over £20 worth of gems but none of it is getting used in the final costume)
Ribbon/Bias Binding - 4.50
Stayflex cost - £3
Calico cost - £7.50
Shirt cost - £4
Waistcoat cost - £13.00

Total = £126

Wednesday, 12 May 2010

Lapel within a Lapel

On the lapel in my original designs I've drawn an extra lapel on top of the main lapel. This was originally designed to look like part of the shirt coming out over the jacket. But then I thought it would look better if it was still part of the main jacket and that I would make it black and red.
I made up a sample, but after putting it against the embroidered lapel, I decided there would be too much going on and that it partially takes the eye away from the embroidery. So i've decided to leave it out of the final jacket.

Monday, 10 May 2010

AMERICA!!

I've recently found out that after applying for a making work experience out in Utah, USA, offered to us through the course, is now my placement if I want it. I've jumped at the opportunity and so now I'm arranging to go over there for 3 months over summer 2010 to work as part of the Shakespearean Festival in Cedar City, UT, to make costumes, work with alterations, dressing and wardrobe.
I've been applying for my Visa alongside this project. And although it adds to the work load that I've got to do and it's difficult and complicated, my excitement is getting me through. It is a great oppotunity and I expect that benefit me in many ways of costume making, people skills and preparing me for the working world.

Sunday, 9 May 2010

4th - 9th May

This week's been a difficult week. I planned to have the embroidery completely finished my Friday (30/04/10) but didn't quite manage it as the studio closed at 4.
So I finished off the embroidery as quickly as possible monday morning (with the added rush of fashion needing the machine back) and moved onto the rest of the construction.
This week I mainly worked on adapting the sleeve pattern and adapting the trousers as the lines that I had marked in the fitting had created very strange shapes. I also adapted the sleeves so that they would be gathered at the top to sit on the shoulder.
I wanted to move onto making a placket but by the time I got round to wanting to make it, help was no longer available to show me how. So instead I carried on with making the waistband of the trousers.

Because Graham wasn't around this week, the realisation of being to able to complete this Jacket without tutor help has hit. It's so complex and it's not like anything I've made before, so I'm struggling to lead myself through this project. I find myself making something how I feel it should be made and it turns out to be wrong or slightly off course.

I would have liked to get more completed this week but I had trouble with my essay subject and therefore took some time extra time out of my timeplan in order to get that completed.

Wednesday, 5 May 2010

Embroidery

As the main decoration for this costume, I'm embroidering some of The Riley's song lyrics onto the Collar, Lapels, Decorative flap, and Cuffs.
I've borrowed the embroidery machine from Fashion within the University. However, despite having the machine for 3 years, there's no one who really knows how to use it. I got slight guidance on how to set up the machine and begin from a 3rd year Costume student, but that's as far as she got and therefore as much as she could show me. I've had to learn almost everything else that I needed to do on my own.
It's a very complex machine and so took me a while to figure out. And then the whole process is a very time consuming process.

I had to type in the lyrics that I wanted, change them to the font/size etc that I wanted (Kuntsler Script. Height - 11.90mm. Width 80%.) and then fit it inside the hoop otherwise it wouldn't transfer over to the sewing machine. Once I did get it over to the machine, there were some times that I would just let the machine carry on without me having to mind it (on these occasions I would put something heavy onto the pedal and carry on with something else at the same time). However, quite often, there were times when writing needed to be matched up, and I couldn't let the machine carry on otherwise it would overlap the embroidery I had already done.

Matching the writing up is what took the longest and stopped me from being able to carry on with anything else. Because of this, despite the result being a fairly effective decoration, I'm very far behind on everything else that I should be doing and now don't feel as though I'll get the project finished in time.

Because the embroidery wasn't part of my original time plan, I've now struggled to keep to this original time plan and will have to adapt.
I'm now behind on my time plan, but I will not rush to get this finished. I do not want this project to look rushed, I would rather finish this project properly after hand-in for the client.

In that last couple of days of having the embroidery machine, for some reason, it no longer sewed 'h's. This is just something I've just had to continue through because I couldn't change the font after already having embroidered some areas that were fine, and I couldn't stop because it needed to be finished. I tried to find out why it was no longer sewing 'h's but after rebooting the machine, starting all over again and it still continued, there was nothing else I could do.

Song Lyrics

Joe sent me the song lyrics for 12 of The Riley's songs. I didn't need to use all of them, but these are the song lyrics that I've chosen to put onto different parts of the costume:


Not Like you - Collar

You can smile in defence against the worst things
You say love is all that counts it's written in your skin
You can see the light when the sun goes down
But you're not around.

You hold things together when they crumble away
You can talk all night when you've got nothing to say
You can see the light when the sun goes down
But you're not around.

But I'm not like you
I can't pretend we're gonna pull through
And I'm not like you
Well haven't you noticed it's true?

You will try your best to cover my mistakes
You will realise too late to hit the brakes
You will only ever want a smile on my face
But it's not made that way.

And I'm not like you
I can't pretend we're gonna pull through
And I'm not like you
Well haven't you noticed it's true?
And not like you
I can't pretend we're gonna pull through
And I'm nothing like you
Well haven't you noticed it's true?

No no no no no no....

You are the compromise
You opened up my eyes
You are the optimist
You take all the risks



Victory Cigary
and P.A.R.T.Y - Right Lapel

The night is young, wrecked by defeat
We don't go far, follow our feet
Out of the crowd, down to the river
I need your warmth, to stop this shiver

I sing oh my song

He's been here lots, for us its new
He likes us and we like him too
He shares the wine, the river too
I'll take this night, share it with you

I sing oh my song
We sing these songs we sing these songs we sing these songs
You sing oh your song
We sing these songs we sings these songs we sing these songs

The night is young, wrecked by defeat
I'll take this night, share it with you

I sing oh my song
We sing these songs we sing these songs we sing these songs
You sing oh your song
We sing these songs we sings these songs we sing these songs




P.A.R.T.Why why why why why do we need a reason?

Every time the beat drops
Her body's moving like a dance freak se wont stop
The dancefloor burns under moves that are too hot
The snare hits you like a gun shot
Like a gun shot

P.A.R.T.Why why why why why do we need a reason?

Flashing like a strobe light
Her eyes catch me and I can't fight
The rooms packed with odds stacked against me
With only the music to defend me
To defend me

P.A.R.T.Why why why why why do we need a reason?

Slipping down the shots quick
Feeling hedonistic, hedonistic x 4

P.A.R.T.Why why why why why do we need a reason



I Know What You Came For
- Left Lapel

Feel the blood sweat dripping wet love on the dance floor
And we're here for just one night
Get down to our sound there's alcohol on the ground
But in my glass there's more than enough
Look at the girl with the curls at the bar in the red dress
I wonder who she's with tonight
Your heart beats move your feet to the bang of the bass drum

Because we're here to rock your soul
We're to rock your soul
We're here to rock your soul.

She looks at me I can see that she's more than your average
Girl from off the street
She licks her lips moves her hips and I know she wont be leaving
With anyone else tonight
I wanna know whats her name is she game for some more fun

Because im here to rock her soul
Im here to rock her soul
Im here to rock her soul

I know what you came here for
Nobody could give you more
What are you thinking right now?
You came here to show me how
Came walking right through the door
To rock my soul x2

She wants to rock my, she wants to rock my, she wants to rock my
She wants to rock my soul



Turning Point
and Skin and Bones - Decorative Flap

Suck it up and hold it down
I lick the wounds that you have found
Outside a smile inside a frown
But im not proud but im not proud but im not proud
Im just not proud

So dont turn back now
We've only just found out
The world wont beat us down
Just look into my eyes
And I will tell you no lies
So dont turn back now
Theres no surprise theres no surprise theres no surprise theres no surprise

I think that you will never know
It only rains it never snows
I take the weight of us both
On my own on my own on my own
Just on my own

Under the gaze of the suns blaze I lie here
Stay in my arms you can come to no harm its safe here
So lay here, its safe here
Just lay here, its safe here

My skin is white like the moon at night
And you touch it I love it
And your hair it shines like the light in the sky
And I touch it, I love it

You uncover me, discover me
You fulfill me and thrill me

Do you wanna know how we got this close how we came this close?
You're iny skin and bones
Do you wanna know how we came this far how we got this far?
You're in my skin and bones

The mystery that surrounded me it was a smokescreen
You wiped it clean
The truth in your eyes was as cold as ice
I coulddnt melt it, I felt it

You control me and console me
You amuse me and confuse me

Do you wanna know how we got this close how we came this close?
You're iny skin and bones
Do you wanna know how we came this far how we got this far?
You're in my skin and bones


Jimmy is a Lunatic
and Tragic - Cuffs

I think he's sick, I think he's sick, I think he's sick
Jimmy is a lunatic

Jimmy, he's smoked too much shit
He's locked away in his pit
Writing down what he thinks

Jimmy, his mind is out of shape
He's never really awake
His body starts to shake

I think he's sick, I think he's sick, I think he's sick
Jimmy is a lunatic

Jimmy, he's running out of ink
Barely manages to blink
Think we should call the shrink

Jimmy, he's locked away on his own
He doesn't feel the cold
Think we should send him home

I think he's sick, I think he's sick, I think he's sick
Jimmy is a lunatic

Just take the pills, just take the pills, just take the pills




Tragedy, his slight of hand made the girl believe
When expectations are not achieved
He took a breath but he still can't breathe

Drama queen, she shagged her way to the top of the league
Her mother told her not to be deceived
She left the men down on their knees

Whoa oh oh oh
And yeah they'll do it again
Whoa oh oh oh
They don't need any friends
Whoa oh oh oh
And yeah they'll do it again
Whoa oh oh Whoa oh oh Whoa oh oh oh
And they deserve each other

So hats off to you
She had an It Girl attitude
Her dress came off quicker than her shoes
You'll never see the girl cry
And thats why

Whoa oh oh oh
And yeah they'll do it again
Whoa oh oh oh
They don't need any friends
Whoa oh oh oh
And yeah they'll do it again
Whoa oh oh Whoa oh oh Whoa oh oh oh
And they deserve each other

She was undecided about her life
He was finding husbands and stealing their wives
The drugs and the alcohol was pain relief
With all of their feelings buried underneath
She saw right through him just as soon they met
But he showed her a time she could never forget
He might wanna change her and there's those who've tried
But soon he'll realise it's just a waste of time.

Whoa oh oh oh
And yeah they'll do it again
Whoa oh oh oh
They don't need any friends
Whoa oh oh oh
And yeah they'll do it again
Whoa oh oh Whoa oh oh Whoa oh oh oh
And they deserve each other